The feast of St. Barbara is important for the Etna territory because it is linked to fire, as is the memory of another saint (connected to light) Lucia. And although the patron saint of the Catania territory, and therefore also of the volcano, is actually St Agatha, St Barbara is addressed when asking for protection against fire… and therefore also lava. If you find yourself on Etna at the beginning of December, include Paternò in your tour, on the evening of the 4th. The feast of Santa Barbara, patron saint of the city, is an absolute show, with the volcano in the background.
St Barbara and fire
Barbara was a girl who lived in Turkey in the 3rd century, the daughter of a rich Greek man who wanted her to marry a man of his choice and, until then, would keep her prisoner in a stone tower.
During her imprisonment, Barbara converted to the Christian religion. Discovered by her father, he tried to kill her, but the young woman managed to escape and found shelter in the countryside until a shepherd betrayed her trust, reporting her to a judge. Imprisoned again, Barbara suffered many tortures including being burned by flames … which she survived. She was finally beheaded by her own father, on top of a mountain. While he was descending into the valley after the murder, however, the man was incinerated by a sudden lightning bolt. It was the year 306.
The torture of fire and the lightning that avenged her death are both symbols linked to this saint and to the miracles that, immediately after her death, were attributed to her. And even though she was immediately declared “venerable”, her cult spread throughout Europe only nine centuries later, thanks to the crusader knights. Today she is considered the patron saint of firefighters and artillerymen. And of course she protects from the fire of the volcano.
The festival in Paternò
Paternò has considered Santa Barbara its patron saint since 1576, the year in which she was invoked against the plague, miraculously saving many sick people in the city. The celebrations begin on December 2, with a large street party that includes the parade of the “varette” – large votive candles carried on the shoulders of trade guilds’ men. Finely decorated, these eighteenth-century giant baroque “candles” announce the start of the festival to the citizens.
Day 3 is mainly dedicated to masses and religious reenactment. The culmination of the festival is December 4, the day that commemorates Barbara’s death. The day begins early, with the “unveiling” of the statue of the saint, which is then carried in procession through the streets and churches of the city. The procession is completed the following day, December 5. Each day ends with a fireworks display – which we recommend you admire from the panoramic terrace of the Norman Castle, with a view over the city – and Mount Etna on the horizon.
To the delight of tourists, the celebration is repeated on a smaller scale and in different ways on May 27 and July 27.
St Barbara and the volcano
The celebration of May 27 commemorates the eruption of Mount Etna in 1780. As reported by the news on the website EtnaSci.it , from a text by Giovanni Tringali, “the eruptive fissure opened on the south-west side, at the base of Mount Frumento Supino, from an altitude of 2300 to 1850 meters above sea level. The lava, after having hit and surrounded Mount Parmentelli, threatened the small town of Ragalna.(…). The faithful prayed for days for God to save the town from the catastrophe, but the lava continued to advance and stopped in the Eredità neighbourhood, only on May 26, the day in which the relics of St. Barbara, patron saint of Paternò, were carried in procession, 8 days after the start of the eruption. The eruption, then, ended on May 31”.
During the festival, what to see in Paternò
The most beautiful monument in Paternò is the Norman tower, here called “Castle”. It is actually a donjon, or a military tower made habitable to host royals or high-ranking people. The beauty of the tower is given by the material with which it is built, lava stone, and by the double panorama you can enjoy from the two terraces: one overlooking the town and Etna, one overlooking the fields of the hinterland.
At the foot of the Castle there is a path flanked by a blind loggia that leads to the ancient “Main Church”: they call it Scalinata Matrice. Through that path the upper part of the city connects to the lower part where many churches rise (Santa Barbara, Sant’Antonio, Maria Santissima Annunziata, Cristo del Monte, Cristo Re …). You will also admire several palaces including Palazzo Moncada, and monuments such as the Torre dei Falconieri, the Mills, the ancient Aqueduct.
The place not to be missed in Paternò, however, is that of Salinelle. The small mud volcanoes that often erupt sulphurous water, are located in front of the town stadium and are free to access. But it is always essential to go with a local guide, because the danger (of sudden eruptions but also of deep mud pools) is always around the corner. If you venture out alone, stay only where you are certain of the solidity of the ground. (PHOTOS BY G. MUSUMECI)